What to Do in Hyderabad India

Views from Charminar in Hyderabad India
What is there to see and do in Hyderabad? I had the chance to travel to India for work several times over a period of a few years staying in Hyderabad each time. As usual, I decided to seize the opportunity presented by business travel and take some time to explore things to do in Hyderabad while I was there. 

Tips for Arriving in India

The cash machines (ATMs) in India tend to spit out 500 and 1000 rupee notes (~$7 and $14 USD respectively at the time of writing) which are notoriously difficult to change. Even at the airport, shopkeepers will roll their eyes when you ask them to take a 500 or 1000 rupee note. Ignore the social pressure and stand firm: you will need change. We decided to buy some lozenges at the airport to get some smaller bills. If you’re hungry, buying a bag of Hippo chips is another great option to get some change. The Indian Chatpatta flavor was particularly spicy and good. I chuckled when I read the back of the package: Hello, me Hippo...Hippo feel bad you work, work work...Hippo care for you. I don't know about you, but this is exactly how I'd expect a talking hippo to sound! 
Tips for visiting India. Buy a small item at the airport to get change for a 500 rupee note
Many flights from Europe and the Middle East land in Hyderabad in the middle of the night. During the course of my seven trips to Hyderabad, I developed a strategy for dealing with this bad timing. As a woman traveling alone, I did not want to get into a car by myself in the middle of the night with anyone, even if the driver worked for my company. Better safe than sorry given the stories you hear on the news about assaults on women in India. For most of my trips, I flew through Delhi Airport. The flight into Delhi would land around midnight. I booked myself in at the 'by the hour' Eaton Transit Hotel within the secure area of Delhi Airport to get a shower and a few hours sleep before catching an onward connection to Hyderabad to arrive at midday. The rooms are quiet and comfortable -- highly recommended.

Where to Stay in Hyderabad

I always stayed at the Mindspace complex in HITEC City. The buildings had a futuristic look which contrasted with the predominant mode of transportation: the auto-rickshaw. We checked into the posh Westin Hyderabad Mindspace. This hotel is not good if you have vertigo! You can look down from the 20th floor into the lobby below.
Points of interest in Hyderabad India: The lobby of the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace

We got a great sweeping view of the surrounding park and office buildings. We decided to go downstairs and have a look for ourselves. The park had some lovely flowers. It was a quiet, almost idyllic setting. I did notice some feral dogs around but they seemed to be minding their own business. I only got a bit concerned after the fact when I heard them barking and howling at night. We discovered that India is a great place to explore but you definitely need to keep your guard up more so than in other places we've been to date. I returned to the Westin Mindspace in Hyderabad again and again on my 7 trips to India and was treated like royalty. I often found a box of fresh French macarons in my room on arrival. 

Getting Around Hyderabad

As you know, we love to walk and really get to know a place when we travel. India is different. It's not always easy to walk around. Sidewalks are not widespread so you have to contend with the chaotic traffic and constantly be on guard. As westerners, we really stood out and would often be singled out by (a) drivers trying to give us a ride (b) touts trying to sell us something (c) children looking for chocolates or a few rupees (although this was not as widespread in the places we visited as I'd heard it might be before embarking on the trip). For the business part of our trip, we had a driver to take us around. It felt like much of what we saw of India was through the rear window and that we were insulated a bit too much from our surroundings. I did try to capture a sense of the scene outside with my camera.
Cow in the road in Hyderabad India
The traffic congestion felt a bit more bearable from the back seat of an air conditioned car. Every available space on the road was occupied. Auto-rickshaws muscled for space right alongside cars, buses, and lorries. We'd sometimes see families of five piled onto a motorcycle with the mom riding side-saddle on the back with the smallest child on the handlebars. Helmets were not common, especially in Hyderabad, but it seemed to be predominantly the men rather than women and children who wore them.

Small flimsy pedestals stood in major intersections with catchy slogans aimed at improving local driving behavior. For example: risk takers are accident makers. It was also common to see livestock along the roadside and sometimes in the middle of traffic. We even saw some wild boar grazing near a busy road! Being on the road was like an assault on the senses. It definitely made us appreciate the calm and quiet inside our car and back at the hotel.
Points of interest in Hyderabad India: fish-shaped building
My commute in Hyderabad involved being driven through chaotic streets filled with surprises. We spotted a fish-shaped building which made me smile. I think it houses the Department of Fisheries for the region. I saw a giant head sporting an afro of different currencies not far from my hotel. Fruit vendors line the side of the road. Countless auto-rickshaws wait for fares. All the road signs are written in English and the local language (Telugu). The traffic gets a bit snarled at some intersections with trucks, rickshaws, and motorcycles competing with cars and pedestrians. We spotted a herd of cows walking beside the road. One was lagging a bit behind and was moseying down the center of the road toward our taxi! What a close call! Bollywood stars smiled out at us from the back of rickshaws promoting various products.

And Mangoes! My last trip was during mango season and we saw them by the gross being transported here and there.

Birla Mandir

We visited Birla Mandir in Hyderabad as the sun was beginning to set on our first day in India. Birla Mandir is a gleaming white Hindu temple. Visitors are required to take their shoes off before ascending a number of staircases to pay homage to various deities. Photographs were not allowed inside the temple but it was worth the trek to people watch and enjoy sweeping views of Hyderabad. The place was packed. Hyderabad was bathed in a hazy light as dusk set in. 
What to do in Hyderabad India: visit Birla Mandir temple

Shilparamam Arts and Crafts Market

On the return to our hotel, we stopped at Shilparamam Arts and Crafts market. There is a small entry fee (20 rupees) to get in which ensures that the majority of touts stay outside.
It was a different world once we paid our fee and went through the gate. Outside was a pocket of beggars, street children, and auto-rickshaw drivers hoping for a fare. Inside, we were able to shop at our (relative) leisure without interruption.
Things to do in Hyderabad India: Shilparamam Arts and Crafts Market

Of course, we still had to be rather oblique is checking out various items because as soon as we showed any interest at all, the shopkeeper would try to engage us in a purchase. We also had to negotiate hard because there is an inevitable 'tourist tax' on the price of things. The shopkeepers will often quote prices 2-3 times what they would charge a local. I emerged with a couple of chiffon scarves. I asked a colleague what she would have paid for the scarf and she told me about 200 rupees. That's what I paid so I felt pretty good for getting a decent price. For Americans, it sometimes feels awkward to bargain (at least for me) but it's an absolute must in India.
Where to Shop in Hyderabad: colorful scarves at Shilparamam crafts market
I was lucky to have the chance to visit Hyderabad 3 times for work over a 2 month period and made a return trip to Shilparamam Crafts Market, this time with a colleague. I definitely found Shilparamam Market to be a challenging place to navigate on my own. What a difference having a colleague with me made! For one, we went during the day. The sun was shining and we had a most excellent time exploring the various stalls. I found a number of great gifts for friends and family and thanks to my local guide was able to buy everything for a really reasonably price (less than 50% of what the vendors were asking originally). Shilparamam is definitely worth a stop in Hyderabad especially if you have someone that lives there who speaks the local language and is willing to negotiate hard on your behalf.
What to do in Hyderabad India: shop at Shilparamam Crafts Market
On a third trip to Hyderabad, my colleagues and I plotted our strategy for a visit to Shilparamam Market for the Shilparamam Night Bazaar. We arrived and were greeted by terracotta camels and elephants. We browsed the colorful wares including scarves, caftans and dazzling long tops. The bright textiles contrasted sharply against the white walls of the bazaar building.

Our approach to shopping worked well. We pretended that the items weren't for me but rather for my local friend or her 'aunt' and 'uncle'. When we discussed whether to buy it or not, we would speak in code: "I think that would love amazing on your aunt!" meant: "I love it, bargain for it for me." "I don't think your uncle would like that" meant lets move on. For the scarves, we'd say "I think you'd look so much better in green...purple isn't really your color", etc. I'm sure most of the vendors could see through our ruse but we still managed to bargain down much further than I probably could have on my own. Shopping with locals in Hyderabad is always great fun and a more rewarding experience than going it alone.

Charminar

Iconic Charminar is synonymous with Hyderabad. It takes about an hour to go the 20 km from the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace to Charminar. Our driver braved the general chaos of the area and delivered us to a parking area behind the main market. We walked past proud but crumbling facades to enter the milieu. We took a moment to admire Charminar from a distance. Auto-rickshaws and fruit sellers sprawled in front of the monument. We spotted Mecca Masjid mosque standing nearly opposite Charminar.

What to see in Hyderabad India: Charminar


We approached the monument which was build by the Nizam of Hyderabad to celebrate the eradication of plague in the late 1500s and made a mad dash across the road to get to the entrance. Crossing the street in India always seemed to be a 'run for your life' affair. We got a nice look at Charminar up close as we wound our way around to the entrance avoiding the touts trying to sell us Hyderabadi pearls. Some even held a flame up to their merchandise to prove authenticity! We paid our entrance fee and ascended Charminar. We appreciated the ornate structural elements. I smiled at this warning sign indicating that 'writing on Charminar is a punishable offence'. The surrounding wall was completely covered in subtle graffiti. The chaos below was fascinating to watch. 
Views of Hyderabad India from Charminar

Mecca Masjid

We spotted Mecca Masjid in the distance from atop Charminar and decided to walk over and have a look. I had to buy a scarf from a Hyderabadi vendor not to cover my head but to cover my chest before entering. I was surprised because I was wearing a very loose fitting long sleeved shirt and my figure was very much covered even without the scarf. It's definitely important to dress conservatively in India. We finished our brief tour of the area by peeking at various vendors and taking a wander through the fruit stalls. The fruit looked so good but we dared not eat it for fear it wouldn't agree with our delicate western stomachs. We met our driver and continued on to Chowmahalla Palace.
Points of interest in Hyderabad India: Mecca Masjid

Chowmahalla Palace

Chowmahalla Palace was a sight to behold and is definitely a top point of interest in Hyderabad. In their day, the Nizams of Hyderabad were some of the richest people in the world. We wandered the palace grounds steeping in the grandeur. I particularly liked the scalloped arches. We wandered past a large cannon and stage set-up for a musical performance that evening.
What to do in Hyderabad India: tour Chowmahalla Palace
The interior of the various buildings housed museum exhibits ranging from portraits and information about the generations of Hyderabadi Nizams to coaches to weaponry through the ages. A stuffed tiger presented a menacing figure. An ornately carved ballroom was decorated with grandiose chandeliers. The intricate ceiling decorations provided an appropriate backdrop.
Things to see in Hyderabad India: The marble and chandeliers of Chowmahalla Palace

Much of the palace was colored a delicate yellow both inside and out. Water features on the property added to the ambiance.
Things to see in Hyderabad India: stuffed tiger at Chowmahalla Palace

Hussain Sagar

After lunch, we visited Hussain Sagar, a lake with Buddha centerpiece in Hyderabad. We paid a modest entrance fee of about 10 rupees per person. For once, the cost to enter was the same for both locals and tourists. We discovered that there is at least a 10x difference at most attractions in India between what locals and foreign visitors pay. We bought another ticket and boarded a slow ferry to the Buddha statue. The ride took about 15 minutes each way. The Buddha statue began to loom in the distance.
Things to do in Hyderabad India: Take a boat to the Buddha statue at Hussain Sagar

We were protected from the hot mid-day sun with a colorful canopy. We arrived on the island and did a quick once-around. There were some delightful water features but none were active at the time we visited. We hopped back on the ferry and rode it back to the park. I was puzzled by this sign: Don't waste water. Don't wash dishes, etc. From a hygiene perspective that doesn't sound advisable. We saw signs with explicit instructions not to smoke, spit, or litter in both English and Hindi. 

A Rare Walk in Hyderabad

We decided to walk along a rare sidewalk sandwiched between the busy road and Hussain Sagar. Sadly, quite a bit of litter and debris had built up along the water's edge. Walking along the road in Hyderabad, we were approached by:

  • (a) a large group of Hyderabadi school girls who wanted to shake our hands and say hello to us in English 
  • (b) college-aged men interested in getting their picture taken with us 
  • (c) rickshaw drivers incredulous that we were walking when there was perfectly good (and cheap!) transportation available
  • (d) a guy that wanted to clean out my husband's ear wax with a long metal pin. It's a common trade here in India but there was no way I was letting anyone put anything blunt or sharp in my husband's ear! 

Hyderabad's NTR Garden

Walking along, we discovered NTR Garden, a delightfully fun place to visit in Hyderabad. We caught a glimpse of whimsical sculptures inside so decided to pay the 30 rupee entry fee for a quick look. The garden was an oasis of green, profusion of colored flowers, and splashing fountains.
What to see in Hyderabad India: NTR Garden

We caught a glimpse of a topless dome in the distance. We even saw a tree house that seemed to appeal to adults and kids alike. In one section of the park there was a life-sized fruit salad. Enormous grasshoppers and praying mantises guarded their territory on the lawn. We completed our quick tour of the gardens before rendezvousing with our driver back at Hussain Sagar.
What to see in Hyderabad India: broken dome at NTR Garden

Golconda Fort

I accidentally scheduled one of my business trips to Hyderabad to coincide with an Indian holiday. Faced with a Monday morning and no work to do before my Dublin colleagues came online, we decided to take advantage of the situation and visit Golconda Fort, another of the flagship points of interest in Hyderabad.
Sign with disparate prices for locals and foreigners in Hyderabad India
As you can see above, we paid dearly for being foreigners. Our admission was 100 rupees while locals paid 5 rupees. In absolute terms, the entry fee wasn't bad and equated to about $1.40 USD at the time of writing. We opted not to hire a guide since they quoted us 700 rupees and refused to negotiate. We had a fine time exploring at our own pace. We climbed a set of stairs to get a good view of one of the entrances to the inner fort. A large group of students was posing for a picture near the gate and before we knew it, they had surrounded us for a group photo. We were stopped at least four times at Golconda Fort by people interested in being photographed with us. I'm tall, my hair is somewhat light, and I'm particularly pale so I think I was a bit of a novelty for the Hyderabadi locals. It was all good fun.
Hyderabad points of interest: Golconda Fort
We looked up at our ultimate destination - the top of a really steep hill. Golconda Fort was laid out on the hillside and seemed to consist of a series of ridges. We began our ascent to the zenith. We stopped into a small temple in a cave with bright orange drawings on the wall. As we climbed, we admired sweeping but hazy views of Hyderabad and the surrounding area.

At the top of the hill, we spotted a monument that resembled half of Charminar. We reached the pinnacle, listened for the claps that you can supposedly hear all the way from the fort entrance (a celebrated acoustical phenomenon of Golconda Fort), posed for a few pictures with local visitors, admired the view, and then began our descent. We could see the well-manicured lawns we'd walked through in the distance. We descended a steep staircase. At the base, we walked through a few picturesque arches and listened to the sounds of bats that had taken up residence in a dark corner of the property. I could just imagine colorful pottery or other historical Hyderabadi knick-knacks housed in these alcoves. Once again, we reached ground level, had a stroll past the gardens, and found our way to the hustle and bustle of the entrance gate where our driver was awaiting our return. Golconda Fort was a great stop to get a bit of exercise and experience a piece of local history.
Things to see in Hyderabad India: vertical panorama of Golconda Fort

Inorbit Mall

On my trips to Hyderabad, I would typically arrive in Hyderabad on Sunday. Inorbit Mall is just a short distance from the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace and is a nice spot to spend an air-conditioned afternoon. I rode the complimentary auto-rickshaw from the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace back and forth to the mall. 

Hyderabadi Pearls

What is Hyderabad known for? Hyderabad is known as the pearl capital of India. I resisted pearl shopping for two complete trips to India before finally giving in and buying myself a little present on my final trip of the year. I used the excuse that I had just discovered that my mother loves pearls. I picked her up a chain of signature Hyderabadi rice pearls and then couldn't resist buying a little bling for myself. Not bad, eh? The trick is to go someplace recommended by locals. I chose Mangatrai Pearls in the Inorbit Mall. I paid the equivalent of about $50 USD for two pairs of earrings and the necklace but I knew the quality was high so felt the price was reasonable, especially after I had negotiated for a 30% discount.
What to buy in India: Hyderabadi Pearls

Stop to See Roadside Statues of Waving Dignitaries in Hyderabad

On previous trips to Hyderabad, I was intrigued by a surprising roadside display of statues on the drive from the Hyderabad Airport to the Mindspace area but was never able to get my camera out in time to capture it. This time, I made sure I was ready. When my driver saw what I was trying to do, he pulled over and I was able to get some great close-up shots of smiling bronze busts and waving dignitaries. There was even a sword-wielding figure on a horse. Too cool.
What to see in Hyderabad India: Political statues

Aliens Space Station

On one of my trips, as the cab whisked me from the Hyderabad Rajiv Gandhi International Airport toward my hotel, the driver pointed out the neatly folded newspaper in the seat pocket in front of me. I wasn't sure if it was the jet lag or the heat, but I was sure my eyes must be deceiving me when I saw ALIENS SPACE STATION emblazoned across the front of the Sunday Times. Further down the page, I noted proud testimonials from residents of said Space Station. Apparently, ALIENS SPACE STATION is the daring name of an apartment/condo complex in a remote area of Hyderabad. Talking to my local colleagues, I learned that it's located by itself among dry rocky landscape which makes it feel like you've landed on another planet. Maybe next time I'm in India I'll see if I can arrange a viewing.
Points of interest in Hyderabad India: Aliens Space Station

The ISB: Indian School of Business

One of my colleagues is a graduate of the Indian School of Business (ISB) in Hyderabad and took me for a tour of campus while I was in town. We entered a sleek white marble courtyard with a few students milling about. The tiered auditoriums often host professors from internationally renowned business schools like Wharton, Kellogg, and the like. Founded in 2001, ISB Hyderabad has rapidly climbed up the business school ranks and won numerous international awards. A spiral staircase rises through the center of the library. An impressive glass dome adds to the dramatic scene. Interesting modern sculptures and signboards with inspirational quotes line the central corridor: "Go out into the world today and love the people you meet. Let your presence light new light in the hearts of people" - Mother Terasa [sic].

The ISB campus is situated in the center of a large forested plot in Hyderabad. Four living areas radiate outwards from the center classrooms and meeting spaces. Each living area is marked by a tall tower. We took a brief walk around campus, admiring the clean white structures lit from within. We finished our visit by passing through the complex that houses the executive lounge. I really appreciated the opportunity to visit the ISB. It's a closed campus so I was fortunate to have an alumni connection in Hyderabad to show me around.
Things to see in Hyderabad India: Indian School of Business (ISB)

Witness Hyderabadi Artistry

One of my favorite things to do in Hyderabad is to have dinner at Kangan in the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace and have a bangle made (free with dinner purchase). This time, I decided to capture the creative process - it's amazing to see the artisan at work. Here's how Saleem, my favorite artisan in Hyderabad makes bangles:
  1. Pick your colors! 
  2. The chosen colors are warmed over coals and applied to the clay. 
  3. The clay and copper circles to reinforce the bangle are warmed over the coals. 
  4. The clay is rolled out and the colors are swirled into place. 
  5. The ends are fused together while warming over the coals. 
  6. The wire is placed in the center of the clay and the bangle is rolled into shape. 

Voila! Gorgeous... I have developed quite a bangle collection. You can see several of the creations that I 'commissioned' on my various trips to Hyderabad.
Things to do in Hyderbad India: get a bangle made at Kangan in the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace

Lunch at Falaknuma Palace

I took my team to the famed Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad for an exquisite six course lunch. Arrive a little early to leave time to explore the grounds and the small museum inside. Experience the opulent life of the Nizams of Hyderabad who called Falaknuma Palace home before it became a hotel with one of the best restaurants in Hyderabad.
What to see in Hyderabad: Falaknuma Palace

The food itself was incredible. Start with a mango cocktail if you are visiting Hyderabad during mango season. I enjoyed my drink with a selection of poppadoms and chutneys. Pan-fried corn cake, a trio of vegetarian appetizers (chargrilled baby corn, paneer cheese, and another pan-fried cake) and a tamarind sorbet palate cleanser followed. The mains were served in brass pots with a generous basket of naan. I tried a taste a delicious vegetarian curry, paneer makhni, black lentils, and a creamy spinach dish. For dessert, we were treated to five mini-sweets including yogurt, spiced apples, apricots stuffed with a sweet cheese, and beetroot pudding. Lunch at Falaknuma Palace is definitely ideal for a splurge: great food and great history equals one of the top points of interest in Hyderabad.
Things to do in Hyderabad India: eat lunch at Falaknuma Palace

Where Else to Eat in Hyderabad

Falaknuma Palace is a culinary experience all it's own. Here are a few additional ideas for places to eat in Hyderabad.

Food Safety in India

I always opted to go vegetarian on our trips to India to cut down on the risk of 'Delhi Belly'. I was mostly successful with only minor discomfort (likely due to the high level of spiciness of Indian cuisine) and no incapacitating illness on any of my seven trips. We were very careful with what we ate. Our mantra was 'if it looks dodgy...don't eat it'. We also drank only bottled water, brushed our teeth with bottled water too, and tried to minimize the water running over shut eyes and lips in the shower. 

Kangan at the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace

The food at the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace (a 5 star hotel) was quite good. I dined at Kangan many times during my visits. I particularly liked their sauces and chutneys. The mains and soups were served piping hot. I always enjoyed my 'usual', a vegetarian sampler platter featuring paneer makni and lentils.
Where to eat in Hyderabad: vegetarian curry sampler at Kangan in the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace

The Breakfast Buffet at the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace

We were delighted by the breakfast buffet at the Westin Hyderabad Mindspace. There were options to suit every appetite from Indian to Chinese to Western. We especially liked idli (a sort of steamed pancake) served with coconut, peanut, and ginger chutneys. I had a masala dosa made to order every day for breakfast. Yum! Even if you aren’t staying at the Westin, you can still book in for brunch here.

Hyderabadi Biryani at a Mughlai Restaurant

We stopped at a Mughlai restaurant recommended by our driver on our day trip to Charminar and Chowmahalla Palace. This is not usually a good move as drivers typically have deals with certain establishments that bring them a nice commission for delivering business. In this case, even with any mark-up due to commission, this place was very reasonably priced. Dishes cost 50-90 rupees each (about $1 USD). The restaurant at our hotel cost over 10 times as much. We finally tried Hyderabadi biryani. In this case, we opted for the vegetarian version of the spicy rice dish sticking to our plan to guard against Delhi Belly. 
What to eat in Hyderabad India: Mughal cuisine

Ohri’s Restaurant

I went out with my coworkers to dinner at Ohri's Restaurant in Hyderabad. Their motto is Wine, Dine, Unwind. The restaurant is located above Hussain Sagar. We had drinks on an outdoor terrace with a refreshing breeze blowing through. Victims of the hunt were mounted above the bar. Some of the tables sported a flowing canopy.
Where to eat in Hyderabad: Ohri's
We walked downstairs to dinner. There are two sections of the restaurant. One part is themed like 1960s-1970s Indian movies complete with wax girl in a cage. The other part was quite opulent with a band playing the sitar and other Indian instruments. Our drinks were poured into gold chalices and we were surrounding by large white columns. Outside, a fortune teller laid in wait. For 50 rupees he read my palm and face which I was able to understand through a coworker who kindly translated what he said into English. Most of what he said was pretty upbeat and resonated in that general fortune-teller'y way. I was glad to hear that my past challenges were over with good luck ahead.
Things to do in Hyderabad India: Get your fortune told at Ohri's Restaurant

When to Visit Hyderabad? 

I found that November through February is the best time to visit Hyderabad. It’s hot but not oppressively so and the monsoon hasn’t hit yet. March is sweltering. I only visited Hyderabad once in July during the annual monsoon. Definitely avoid Hyderabad during the monsoon if you can. On the way back to the airport, on my monsoon-timed trip we had to drive through some pretty deep puddles. The cars in front of us were up to their wheel-tops in water! Luckily, we made it through with no issues. Hyderabad is an entirely different experience at this time of year and it’s more difficult to appreciate the historical sites in the rain.

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Sidewalk Safari | Part-time Travel Blog: What to Do in Hyderabad India
What to Do in Hyderabad India
Learn about what to do in Hyderabad India. Explore things to do in Hyderabad.
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Sidewalk Safari | Part-time Travel Blog
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